zhong89 Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 I'm considering starting 3 ft community tank with a great deal of plants, I'm getting a little sick of keeping only low lights plants such as Anubias, java fern and moss, water sprite and some crypts. From all the lights I'm come across whether in aquariums, or pet shops or other sources I found those to be the best value and adequate to my needs. But there's two I couldn't quite decide between. There's only a $10 difference in price between them so it's not a big issue. But I didn't want to encourage algae, and a higher power bill (if I don't need the extra power). So experienced plant keepers please let me know which ones is better. Light no1: 2 tubes http://www.guppysaquariumproducts.com.au/florescent-light-fittings-and-accessories/t5-florescent-light-fittings-supreme-aqua/3ft-double-t5-39w-high-output-aquarium-light/prod_15.html Light no2: 3 tubes http://www.guppysaquariumproducts.com.au/florescent-light-fittings-and-accessories/t5-florescent-light-fittings-supreme-aqua/t5-aquarium-overhead-lighting-3x39w-hi-output-900-long/prod_261.html Also has anyone bought from guppy's aquarium? I know you can't really name is criticize on this forum, so if you have strong opinions please message me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbites Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 (edited) I have the twin tube version you mention but in the 2ft size .... plenty of light output for the 2 x 12" x 12" tank I have it over and plants grow well under the light.... It's the depth of your tank that you need to consider though - the deeper the water the less light penetrates - 2 watts per US gallon is a reasonable rule of thumb - ie the 2 tube fixture would be good for a 3ft tank 12" - 15" and the 3 tube version would be ok for a tank at 18" depth.... if you are growing high light plants though you might need to consider the 4 tube version when they get some in stock.... The 3tube and 4 tube versions have 2 switches so you can either run 1, 2 or 3 tubes with the 3 tube version or 2 or 4 tubes for the 4 tube version... I've bought from Guppy's before and never had any problems with delivery or the products - even had a 4ft twin tube T5 light arrive without any breakages to tubes.... Edited January 17, 2011 by fishbites Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldenGirl13 Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 @ Joan - thanks for the question was going to ask the same myself as my 3ft at the moment has the lid of another smaller tank (inbuilt lights) just sitting on the glass.....not ideal!! @ fishbites - thanks for the reply I also looked at those same lights!! Thanks to both of you I know now which way to go Jo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbites Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 If you want a very basic 3ft light (not made for aquariums but works well), Bunnings have a 3ft light made by Arlec I think - about $33 - aluminium case with a plastic cover over the tube - good enough for basic lighting and will grow mosses and low light plants easily.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zhong89 Posted January 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 lol... I'm a little sick of low light plants (besides I have a few t8 lighting now). I want to venture into the mystery of aquarium plants... lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volvodriver Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 I'm with Wayne. Personally I would go with the highest light you can afford, if you find you have issues with algae, remove a tube or reduce the time that your running them. I'm personally going for an 8 tube unit and only planning on running 4 or 5 because i don't know if i might want more in the future, it's only $20 difference between a 4 and 8 tube unit. You might find that you get the plant bug and I personally have been going through the frustration of trying to grow plants in not enough light because i started planting and got addicted, now completely ripping apart my tank, replacing the substrate and re-buying hundreds of $$ of gear that i bought 6 months ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldenGirl13 Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 @ volvodriver - bugger! :alright: plants are addictive, Ilove the look of them in my tanks, my fish love them and I have made exactly the same mistake as you. Am not looking forward to another pull down but I have a nasty feeling it may be on the cards!! I think the phrase "Pooh, bum, knickers!!" about covers it Jo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
holycow Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 (edited) you could go about growing aquarium plants using the 'dry-start' method? but it does requires a bit of discipline as it requires you to wait for the plant(s to carpet out before adding water and fishies to the tank Edited January 19, 2011 by holycow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldenGirl13 Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Sounds interesting and I do happen to have a spare tank looking lovingly at me from the corner of the room... and I do rather fancy the idea of a planted tank for a school of neons... got any more info holycow? Jo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zhong89 Posted January 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 I have decided to buy the 3 tubes one... have placed the order with a friend to save on postage.... I think I can feel a new obsession coming up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neffy Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 Yay pictures when u start it ! ive been trying to get my big tank looking good T_T but it doesnt have enough plants yet but im getting some more soon yay any idea what you will do for substrate? i tried a layer of soil and then a layet of Eco complete but IT FAILLED HORRIBLY !! i get huge pockets of air that escape from the soil and all the eco complete got sifted underneath it i wouldnt recommend doing that. Now it just looks like poo soil intead of nice gravel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zhong89 Posted January 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 lol, haven't decided on that yet. What I'm planning now is since I'm a complete beginning I'm going to plant all the plants in plastic cups with a little bit of laterite and gravel or on driftwood. That way if I decide to move them they won't be damaged in anyway... I'm going to use moss or place the cups in between driftwood to cover it. But this is all in theory, don't know how it will look when I get it to work. So far I've got some amazon swords, crypts, java moss and java fern (both broad leaf and the needle leaf type), lots of anubias (nana and coffeefolia), watersprite, amazon frogbits and got a pot of hair grass too! Don't know how it's going to look altogether but right now I'm too excited about my new job I'm starting on monday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neffy Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 Thats a cool plan ! Id love to see how it goes, i find some of my problems come from uprooting plants cause i dont like their location Grats on the job :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
holycow Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 you can use a number of plants with the dry-start method including HC (dwarf baby tears), eleocharis (hair grass), anubias, echinodorus (swords) and mosses. you want to separate the plants/plantlets before planting, or in the case of mosses and anubias, attach them to something, and then plant into the substrate. then you want to saturate the substrate with water (dechlorinated) and fertilizer (look to fertilizing instructions; too much fertilizer equates to reverse osmosis or root-burn), but don't submerge your plants. substrates like aqua soil and ada soil already have HEAPS of fertilizer/ammonia added and don't require more fertilizer. then to keep the moisture within your tank, seal the tank with glad wrap. then apply light source for about 8-10 hours/day. spray a fine mist into the tank every day or so in order to maintain the high humidity within the tank. the dry-start method should see your plants spread quite quickly within your tank. but it does take about a month to see the full benefits, and you must exercise restraint and avoid the temptation to flood the tank with water. so by the time you flood the tank, the soil should have already been colonised by ammonia-using bacteria colonies, so your tank will have already been 'cycled'. when you eventually flood the tank remember to used dechlorinated water! also, after flooding, remember to flush the substrate to remove excess nutrients/fertilizer, otherwise you may end up with an algae bloom. after flooding, you will need to add excel or C02 in order to acclimatise your plant to the sudden change in gas-exchange; that is, your plants will go from a state of almost unrestricted access to C02 to a restricted one. failure to do so will see your plants 'melting'. you can gradually reduce the amount of C02 you inject into your tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldenGirl13 Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 Thanks for that holycow sounds like a great way to go with my spare tank as I haven't decided yet exactly what I want to put in there. I definitely want neons but am still undecided as to whether or not I want them to be the focal point or just the chorus line Jo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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